Let loose in London!

Warning! This is the itinerary from a Food / Cultural weekend as opposed to handbags and shoes!!!

 

It was my first weekend abroad with my husband (without kids) since our honeymoon 5 years previous and seeing that we only had 2 kiddy-free nights…..they had to be good! I’d lived in London 10 years before, hadn’t really enjoyed the time and was determined to rectify it!

 

Our first stop having navigated our way out of Heathrow was to check in at the hotel. We had decided to stay at the Sofitel St James, 6 Waterloo Place, tel:0044 20 77472200. We’d stayed at the Manhattan Sofitel and loved it. A very early check-in (prior to midday) didn’t phase the staff at all. Our room was perfect with a distinctly masculine feel to the décor. The stunning bathroom featured a decent sized rain shower, large vanity area and a sizable bath.

 

The Sofitel chain is great at creating common areas where people really want to spend time. We had a quick pot of tea from the extensive “tea menu” in the Rose Lounge. In complete contrast to the rest of the hotel, it was ultra-feminine and a joy to sit in! Cerise pink couches were the dominant features complimented by painted bookshelves interspersed with oriental-patterned urns and romantic novels. Our tea arrived in clear perspex tea-pots accompanied by delicate rose patterned china. Hubby loved it but no matter what I offered, we will not be replicating the look at home…..whether it was the pink couches or the rose-patterned china that put him off, I’ll never know!!!

 

We went straight round to the National Portrait Gallery which was astounding. There may be “no accounting for taste” but there is something here to account for every taste. I was so blown away by the competition entries at ground level I couldn’t take in much else.

 

One thing that struck me about London, probably because I was traveling ’sans enfants’ was how many family based activities were available, many free of charge. From ‘creating your own portrait at the National Portrait Gallery’ to ‘free open-air mime/circus acts’ the choice was incredible.

 

We ate lunch at the nearby J Sheeky, 28-32 St Martins Court, tel: 0044 20 7240 2565 (Leicester Sq tube, leaving tube take exit 1 & turn left onto Charing Cross Rd, St Martins Court is 2^nd road on Left but if at the portrait Gallery just take the short walk.). The decor is elegant with wooden wall pannelling complimented by black & white celebrity portraits, crisp white table linens and is immaculately clean.

 

With fabulous dinner reservations, we thought it best to do some walking for the afternoon! We strolled about the shopping areas (Oxford St & Regent St) taking in the Friday buzz as the “suits” began to leave the city for the weekend. It was such a hot afternoon, we stopped at Hamleys to pick up some gifts for the kids and take complete advantage of their air conditioning. Huge mistake. The store was just as hot as outside and the queue’s were horrendous. But queue we did and left pronto to be resuscitated at the nearby La Maison du Chocolat (45 – 46 Piccadilly). Crisp air conditioning, handmade French chocolates, no preservatives…….absolutely yummy. Without doing too much tasting, we made our purchases and headed back to the hotel.

 

We dined at Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, Soho (0044 20 7439 0450). Early indications of the treat in store for us was the friendly and polite girl who answered the phone and took my reservation a month prior. An oasis of calm in the centre of a Friday-afternoon-chaotically-busy SOHO. Maybe it was the distraction of Gordon Ramsey’s bare chest or Jamie’s cute boyish looks but Richard Corrigan was never a huge draw for me. Despite this, friends in France were determined we should give it a blast, so we did. I genuinely believe this is the best restaurant I have ever had the pleasure to eat at.

I probably could write a book on it but some observations in short…..

• We were under no pressure to choose a wine and spent forever leafing through the incredibly long bible of fabulous wines with the help of the softly spoken manager.

• The restaurant is quite brightly lit (though not glaring) and although this initially took me by surprise, I think it really helped to distinguish the evening as being absolutely about great food, as opposed to a dimly lit romantic room which is usually all about the atmosphere.

• The food was absolutely the best I have ever eaten. My husband has a very strong phobia about mushrooms since being forced to eat them as a kid. His main dish arrived with a side of portobello mushrooms flavoured with aniseed. He ate the lot and loved it!

• 2 pet hates were put to bed. There was minimal fat on the duck and no need to ask for extra chutney for the cheese as it came in plentiful supply.

 

If you love fabulous food, great wines and excellent service you have got to eat at Lindsay House. Leaving the restaurant was a surreal but fun experience! You step right out into the middle of what seems like all of the young and the beautiful of London partying outside in the very trendy bars of Soho. We strolled, or rather rolled, back to our hotel where a nightcap in the ‘gentleman’s lounge’ was the perfect end to a perfect day. Vintage leather tub chairs complimented large comfortable wool covered couches. An open log fire, black pinstripe fabric lining the walls and bright touches of polished silver made for a warm, relaxing snug.

 

 

Saturday morning we headed off to St James’ Park (a short walk from the hotel). If you’re a garden lover you’ll really enjoy it here. Being a little late for breakfast (a movie was being shot outside the hotel and we were so fascinated we spent an hour looking on!) we took a trip round the gardens to while away some time till lunch, soaking up the inspiration for our own garden and photographing some beautiful features and specimens. If you stand on the bridge in the park you’ll have a beautiful shot of Buckingham Palace.

 

We ate lunch at Inn the Park (which funnily enough is in St James’ Park!). Not the friendliest of staff but they were absolutely inundated with customers. We asked for a table outside on the deck and had the misfortune of being sat near the self-service end of the cafe where the endless (and endlessly curious!) queue filed past our table. It was very annoying and distracting as the food was so good but our humour was lightened when it came to the turn of an 8 year old to file past. She turned to focus on us both, folded her arms and just watched and listened as we ate and talked! It was so innocently done that she gave us a laugh. They do a fabulous chicken terrine here and the bread should be classed as cardinal sin for the hips. I would definitely return…to a more carefully chosen table.

 

From here we walked to Big Ben, 10 Downing St, the London Eye, the list goes on. We stopped off at the Tate Modern for some macaroons and homemade lemonade and took in an astonishing exhibition on some of the fastest growing cities in the world. Fascinating.

 

We headed back to the hotel with very little time left to change prior to rushing off in a cab to the Royal Albert Hall. We had tickets for a Brahms recital which formed part of the line up for the infamous BBC Live At The Proms. My husband, not a classical fan prior to this, was there under duress but was completely bowled over and hooked within the hour and a half performance. The theatre is beautiful and well worth a visit.

 

We strolled from the theatre to The Wolseley (0044 20 7499 6996) restaurant. Too early for our dinner reservation at 9.30pm, we sipped some cocktails in the dark, intimate bar to the right of the entrance. We were able to browse the menu and order from the bar, so there was no more waiting once brought to our table at 9.30pm sharp. It was just as well that I had ordered prior to being brought to the table as there were so many distracting famous faces around us. I was bowled over completely by the fabulous Lily Allen and her father sitting next to us. Just sitting there, next to little ol’ me, having their dinner! I don’t think I ate very much til they left. I forced myself not to stare but she kept singing snippets of tunes for her dad and asking what he thought. It was all so surreal……..the previous week I had paid to download her “smile” and here she was singing live….next to me! Honestly there were so many celebs dining there we lost track. Despite this distraction, the food here is really good but is completely overshadowed by the atmosphere. The complete contrast to Lindsay House the previous night.

 

We contemplated heading to Ronnie Scott’s jazz bar, 47 Frith St, Soho, 0044 20 7439 0747 but just didn’t have the energy after all the walking we had done the previous day so we headed back to base.

Having neglected the shopping for the weekend, I allowed myself a quick stop to Rigby and Peller Corsetieres, 22a Conduit St. I had come across their name numerous times as being the preferred choice of the royals and wanted to see for myself what was so special about these brassieres. This was probably the only great disappointment of the weekend. A large queue greeted me inside the door and I was told to take a ticket and wait for a seat in the queue. Whilst waiting, I noticed that most of the bras on offer were regular brands that can be found in Debenhams such as Triumph, lejabay and Freya. Other brands I glimpsed were ones I could easily have purchased at home in the smaller lingerie boutiques. I inquired about the made to measure service and a few sniggers later left empty handed as I hadn’t made an appointment and there was no one available to provide this service there and then.

 

So as not to end the afternoon on a sad note for my Visa card, I took a quick trip to Russell and Bromley where my card and my soul felt all the better for the purchase of a cute sized, leopard print horse hair bag which has provided me with lot’s of fun since!

 

Having over-indulged in rich food all weekend, we stopped for tea en route back to the hotel to pick our bags up. Our very spontaneous choice was Union Square for a decent burger with chunky potato chips and lot’s of extras.

 

A great itinerary for a great city!

…in NYC….part 2!

A few blocks north of Century 21 on 60 Reade Street, between Church Street and Broadway; 1 block north of Chambers Street leads you to Anbar shoes. The most fabulous shoes organised by colour! If you’re lucky, you’ll find your size in Mui Mui and Rupert Sanderson for up to half the retail price.


You’ll be swamped with bags from Anbar and Century 21. Taxi’s are not easy to hail down around here so don’t be afraid to take a tuk-tuk (a cyclist on a 3 wheeler with a seat for 2 behind!). It’s hilarious fun and we met a fascinating older man who gave us so many invaluable tips and was a wealth of knowledge on “Cultural New York” so it was a real shame that we were just there to shop!

 

Kenneth Cole is one of my favourite stores in the US. There are several stores in Manhattan but head straight for 610 5^th Ave near the Rockefeller Centre as it’s got the widest selection. If you can’t find what you’re looking for here, go to 107 East 42^nd at Grand Central Station where Teresa is so helpful, you’ll want some of her happy pills! Bags are a great buy here. You’ll pay a little extra (although certainly nothing like the Irish prices for Kenneth Cole) but you’ll get something different and very well made. The shoe designs are always very flattering to the leg and even the really high ones are comfortable. I’ve not bought too much clothing here other than a great winter coat and some really well fitted tops. In general, I’ve never been disappointed by their goods or how they wash.

 

Banana Republic is from the same family as GAP but a level higher in quality, style, etc. It’s fantastic for long t-shirts/vests that don’t rise up over pre or post-baby bellies! Their wrap dresses, when they have them, are brilliant and wash so well. I purchased a black one in October for 80 dollars in the sale. A friend tried on a Diane Von Furstenberg one in Saks and was so disappointed with the fabric quality and the fit. The quality at Banana Republic is not as great as Kenneth Cole but still really good. You’ll find great on-trend bags and accessories here at great prices. There’s also a great selection of shoes but not all as equally comfy so try before you buy. Go to the store next to the Kenneth Cole shop at the Rockefeller Centre for the best selection and pop out the back door for a little apple martini while you watch the world and the ice-skaters go by!

 

 

 

Designer Shoes

Manolo Blahnik, 31 West 54th Street. Should I win the lotto, this is to be my 1^st stop. Go early in the morning to avoid disappointment as they don’t stock many sizes in each shoe. The staff are lovely and really patient (other than 1 blonde girl who served a friend but who may not last very long there as she was being watched by a more senior staff member). The shoes are not yet available in Ireland which makes them all the more desirable! They are approximately 375 – 450 sterling in the UK depending on the pair you fall in love with (you can pay thousands for rare materials like reptile) but in the US, they’ll set you back approximately 500 dollars! Plus the service and the entire shopping experience in the US will guarantee absolute smugness and an ear to ear smile every time you wear them! The packaging is a little disappointing but the shoes boast the most beautiful craftsmanship I’ve ever seen in footwear. Perfect stitching, glorious smell of good leather and flawless finish.

 

Christian Louboutin are available in a few locations in Manhattan. Be aware that they are roughly the same price as BT’s so you’re not getting a bargain. Funny that….. “Louboutin” and “bargain” in the same sentence!!! But boy will your shopping experience be different if you make your purchase in the US! I treated myself to a pair on my last visit to Manhattan……(I’ll be paying them off on my Visa card long after the red sole has worn off……and yes it does wear off!). I spent a while contemplating if I should just wait and purchase them back home. A quick flashback to my last purchase in BT and decision made. I headed straight for Bergdorf Goodman a magnificent department store on 5^th Avenue with my card burning a whole in my pocket. A true gentleman named CJ was my assistant and despite the word TOURIST screaming from my forehead, he couldn’t have been more polite, patient, friendly and non-patronising. It was obvious that they were my first pair and that I wasn’t exactly going to be wearing them on the school run but I was treated as if I was Victoria Beckham buying 5 pairs in 5 minutes! If only he knew I’d be smelling them, smiling at them and touching them gently every day for the rest of my life! I actually shed a little tear when I saw the sole after the 1^st wear………ssshhhh!

 

Disappointments…………

I was really disappointed with Agent Provocateur, 133 Mercer Street, Soho. In my head I had planned to buy half of what was on their website (although funnily enough there were no prices listed!)….really wanted a short lace kimono type thing…..it was stunning…it was also $3,000!!! The nipple tassels were bad enough at $85 plus extra for the stickers!!! The staff were really aggressively selling and very condescending despite the fact that we were dressed to the 9’s on way to dinner at Balthazar. Wouldn’t return if I won the Euro Millions!

Diane Von Furstenberg was also a disappointment although we didn’t get to the actual store. The staff were quite aloof over the phone so we decided to go to Saks 5th Ave where the solid black wrap was also available. Despite trying her regular size (which should have been slightly bigger as European manufacturers allow a little extra for the US market), the dress was almost indecent on my friend. The fabric was very sheer under the artificial light of the dressing room and the stitching was really poor, particularly at the shoulders which appeared puckered in the wrong places. The dresses look great if you’re fairly small on top, not very voluptuous, wear a slip underneath and use some safety pins!

Food coming next……

Mimi

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in NYC…great shopping tips…tried and tested! Part 1!

As with any shopping trip, you need to plan your wish list before you go, otherwise you’ll waste time and energy buying stuff you don’t need. I adore shopping and love accessories in particular but I’m not great with planning outfits or combining. That’s where my buddy comes in…..it’s what she does best!

On this trip, she suggested the planning involve a stock take of my existing wardrobe, a list of basic but essential new additions (white shirts/decent jeans/cropped leather jacket/wrap dress/knee-high boots, etc) and a wish list for some of this seasons trends (Oct 07: Black patent, purple, midnight blue, Mary-Janes, A-line skirts, opagues).

There are two shops you need to visit every time you’re in New York! I’ve been there many times (used to work as cabin crew) and each time I return, I swear I won’t go to Macy’s again…..but alas, I can’t resist a bargain!
Things to remember with Macy’s

• Visit the loo before you get to the store. The queue’s are notorious and you could waste over 30 mins in there!
• Go straight to the Mezzanine level on the ground floor to the visitor centre and get a visitor card. You’ll need ID so bring a passport. This entitles you to an additional 11% off any item even in the sales.
• Macy’s have a “Wednesday” sale where almost everything in the store is reduced in price by up to 75%. (Other than cosmetics and perfumes!). However when you get there on Wednesday’s…..the good stuff’s gone…..here’s the thing, they reduce the stock, the day before the sale or sometimes after 6pm on the Monday before the sale!!! On the Monday of our stay I had spotted a pair of knee high (part fabric/part leather) boots in Kenneth Cole for 425 dollars and promised them I’d return to purchase them if my Visa card didn’t bounce it’s way out of Macy’s. That evening in Macy’s I bought 2 pairs for 450 dollars!!! I loved the brown but simply had to take the black….such a BARGAIN! They were half price with my visitors card and the Wednesday sale discount.
  
• The MAC products are almost the same figure as Ireland, just in dollars, so it’s worth while to stock up. Eye-shadows were over 14 euros the last time I bought one in BT’s and are 14 dollars in Macy’s – just remember to take a list of what you already have at home. Prep and Prime was 22 dollars and 25 euros in Ireland. We also met Mac’s top make-up artist/trainer while at the counter, who happens to be a fabulous Irish guy living in New York. He gave us plenty of tips and a little extra discount. The Macy’s visitor card doesn’t give discounts on make-up or perfume but you’re still saving.
• Go for a size down from your “Irish” size…..a 14 here is a size 10 in the US but is still bigger than a 14 so enjoy the thrill of saying you’re a size 8……6…..00!!! I don’t know why I thought I was actually thinner when asking for a size 8 or 10 over there…….I’m just another overweight 30 something year old to the staff in Macy’s. Great giggle though!
  
• Try not to get bogged down by the Tommy Hilfiger section. It’s full of Irish tourists and Customs are known to stop the Tommy Jackets……particularly the puffa jackets with fur-trimmed hoods. The jeans though are comfortably high-waisted (for post-baby tummies) and perfect for day wear.
• Have something to eat while you’re there. It’s such a huge space to navigate you could spend a full day there so leaving to go elsewhere for lunch is nuts….unless it’s back to your hotel to drop off some major purchases! There’s a Starbucks on the mezzanine level of the ground floor (opposite side to the visitor centre) and there’s a nice pizza outlet on the 2nd shoe floor (near to all the juicy tracksuits!).
• When trying/buying in the shoe section, be careful to stick to the same assistant. They get very bitchy about commission even if you’ve innocently asked someone passing to get your size in a totally different shoe.
• The escalators are faster than the lifts when the store is busy!

I never understood the fascination with Century 21 until my most recent trip. Each time I’d go there, I’d think I was back home in Michael Guiney’s and leave with just a few wallets to bring home to the grannies! This time, I got it! After receiving some advice from a true New Yorker, it was obvious that there are some serious bargains to be had here….you just need to….yes…plan ahead! The best bargains are definitely the leather goods, accessories, most shoes, some handbags and hosiery.

Let “Survival of the Fittest” be your motto and get there just in time for the doors to open! Start in the basement for the shoes. You’ll find great quality in Anne Klein or Martinez Valero. I wore Martinez Valero for my wedding day….they cost 240 Irish pounds in 2002. The Valero black velvet, peep-toe Mary Janes (with gold trim) I bought in Century 21 cost 39 dollars and are to die for! I also bought a pair of Anne Klein purple pumps for 39 dollars. At that price. it doesn’t matter if purple isn’t back in fashion for 5 years! The great thing about any of the 4 pairs I bought here (for 160 dollars) is the comfort. No blisters! Do bear in mind though that your feet will be slightly swollen from traveling so stick to your size and allow a little forgiveness!

Move from there to the handbags at ground level. The jewelery isn’t great and you can get bogged down in all the tacky bags but keep searching particularly in the cabinets around the till points for what you need! I found the wallets in Macy’s were better quality but the selection of clutches/evening bags in Century 21 is incredible! Every colour you could imagine. From there we went to the accessories floor. Just think….4 year old in sweet shop with 50 quid……..I went nuts. Every colour pashmina you’ve ever seen on one stand. Hundreds of hats in trendy styles and colours (18 dollars for a Kangol). Designer belts from 12 dollars. I even picked up a deep purple Versace silk scarf for 29 dollars. These are authentic designer items too as Century 21 doesn’t sell fakes. I also got my hands on some incredible opaques for 5 dollars a pair. They’re pitched at the same level as Wolford but are American made so they sell much cheaper. We found the Wolford brand was the same price as home.

When you get to ladies wear, make sure you know what you want as there’s so much rubbish here you really have to have your wits about you. I wanted a leather jacket and went straight for that section. I ended up buying 2 amazing jackets. Calvin Klein (short black bomber style) & Kenneth Cole (short, fitted, high-neck, tan colour) for 380 dollars for the 2!

Century 21, 22 Cortlandt St., between Church St. and Broadway; 212-227-9092, c21stores.com

Brooks brothers is next to Century 21 (right across from ground zero) and is worth a look. The clothes here are beautifully made but for the most part a little “settled” or too traditional. I did buy a beautiful black leather satchel here and my buddy purchased a fabulous camel coloured leather skirt. Neither was cheap but the quality is hard to beat.

Part 2 on the way so keep an eye out!

Happy Shopping!

Mimi

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